Essential Oils & Absolutes
BASIL - laurus nobilis
A classic cooking herb and the oil has a light, fresh, sweet and spicy note with a balsamic undertone. It is a very good digestive helping with nausea and gas and helps to tone the small intestines. It is also good for travel sickness. It is an emmenagogue so will help with scanty periods but obviously do not use in pregnancy. Being a mild sedative it does help with insomnia and is an adrenal cortex stimulant.
Skincare - Useful to use on stings and bites and to some extent as an insect repellent.
Haircare - It is a very good nervine so helps with nervous tension and clears the head. This would make it a lovely choice to use in shampoos and body washes to relieve mental fatigue but be aware of the cautions.
Suggested Blends - blends very nicely for fragrance with citrus notes like lime or bergamot. It takes some of the sweetness off ylang ylang and adds a peppery spice note making it smell very complex as a fragrance. Consider other "green" notes such as geranium.
Cautions - Do not use during pregnancy. Some people can become sensitised.
BAY - laurus nobilis
A spicy and slightly medicinal note which is great to relieve intestinal gas whilst strengthening the digestive organs. A wonderful restorative bath product and adds a complex masculine note to blends. It makes a superb restorative bath when made incorporated into bath melts or bubble baths and helps to alleviate aches and pains especially the sort from when you have been out in the damp and cold. Combine with lavender, patchouli and clary sage.
Skincare - Be aware that some people may become sensitised to Bay so best not to use in face products for sensitive skin.
Haircare - A wonderful fragrance to add to shampoos and conditioners and especially aftershaves or blends for men.
Suggested Blends - With clove and cinnamon for Winter blends. With rosemary, geranium and lavender for herbal shampoos.
Cautions - Some individuals may become sensitised and have a skin reaction. Due not use during pregnancy.
BENZOIN - styrax tonkinensis
A delicious fragrance that is very comforting and nurturing so think in terms of a duvet hug! A rich and sweet, balsamic note with good depth and more than a hint of vanilla and chocolate. One of the ingredients for the original Friars Balsam as it helps a lot with respiratory complaints.
Skincare - A wonderful choice for chapped skin or skin that is irritated and inflamed. Great for a gardeners hand cream or people who have their hands in contact with detergents a lot like hairdressers. It has a cooling effect on the joints where there is hot inflammation so a great choice for arthritis and rheumatism blends when it is hot.
Haircare - No specific haircare use but inhaling it in when included in a shampoo, it instils a warming and comforting feeling that is very deep and as a base note it effectively covers the smell of strong smelling raw materials like sea silk.
Suggested Blends - With other base note oils like sandalwood and patchouli but also gives good depth to more middle notes like rose and jasmine. It can round and soften some of the harshness of spicier notes like cardamom.
Cautions - Don't blend with ginger as ginger is warming whilst benzoin is cooling.
BERGAMOT - citrus bergamia
A deliciously light and fruity fragrance that uplifts the spirits and brings sunshine even to rainy days. Frequently used for flatulence and loss of appetite. As it stimulates the digestion and tones the stomach it has a calmative effect. It's uplifting and useful for anxiety, minor stress anxiety and depression.
Skincare - A good choice for skincare lotions and gels for oily skin that suffers from acne and boils. Be aware of the notes about bergapten. Can be used neat on cold sores. Useful to include in creams for eczema and psoriasis.
Haircare - Adds a lovely fresh top note to a blend that makes it an ideal way to start the day with shampoos and body washes.
Suggested Blends - Combines well with any of the citrus oils for fragrance. Good for sunburn with lavender, spearmint and St John's Wort oil.
Cautions - Contains bergapten which can be phototoxic and sensitise certain people. If this may be a problem, buy the Bergapten free Bergamot.
BLACK PEPPER - piper nigrum
A fresh scent with dry, woody note and warming, spicy fragrance. It stimulates the appetite and even helps with constipation and migraines especially when related to the digestion.
Skincare - A great choice for chilblains so consider using in gardeners hand creams or cold arthritis or rheumatism creams. Very warming so would make a good warm up gel for pre sports use.
Haircare - Very grounding so good to combine with floral notes like geranium and rose to give the overall fragrance a deeper complexity.
Suggested Blends - Often used in perfumery with susprising results such as with flower oils like rose or jasmine. Very earthing so good to blend with oils that work very much in your head space like high altitude lavender or hyacinth.
Cautions - Relatively safe but don't use in very high quantities on people who are prone to reddening of the skin. Don't use on any skin conditions that are hot. Do not use if using homoeopathic remedies. Avoid if menopausal or suffering with heat rash or hot flushes. Avoid with chronic IBS or coloitis.
CAMPHOR - cinnamomum camphora
A very clear, fresh smell that clears the nose very well. There are 3 fractions of camphor available but only the white camphor oil should be used. The brown and the yellow are not safe to use. It is a strong stimulant and a good anti bacterial expectorant so useful in chest complaints and colds and flu. It has an uplifting and antidepressant quality as well.
Skincare - Avoid using in facial products as it may be too harsh but the white camphor oil could be used in rheumatism and arthritis creams and gels as it is warming.
Haircare - If using in a shampoo, use in very small amounts as it could irritate sensitive scalps. It is however, a good insecticide.
Suggested Blends - Works well with chamomile for rheumatism.
Cautions - Use in small amounts and avoid on the face altogether.
CARDAMOM - elettaria cardamomum
A sweet and spicy woody fragrance with a woody, balsamic undertone often used with anorexia to increase appetite and work on the anxiety levels. A good stomachic to ease colic and cramps as well as flatulence and heartburn.
Skincare - No particular facial use so best incorporated into body lotions and products like a body wrap or gel to ease nervous strain and mental fatigue.
Haircare - Adds a wonderfully exotic oriental fragrance to shampoos and especially conditioners.
Suggested Blends - Works well with base notes like Patchouli, Sandalwood, Rose, Frankincense and Vetivert as well as the lighter notes like Petitgrain, Bergamot, Orange and Mandarin.
Cautions - None but best to use only small amounts in facial products.
CARROT SEED - daucus carrota
A warm, dry and woody aroma that some say also smells like brandy. Traditionally used to balance the digestive system, it has a beneficial effect on the liver as well as a decongestant. It is a smooth muscle relaxant so also ideal for stress related gut problems and it also clears liver congestion. It will also assist with gout, rheumatism and oedema.
Skincare - A superb choice for all skincare products especially facial products as it tones mature and dry skin and works to prevent wrinkles. It is an effective lymphatic cleanser so would be a good choice in all spa products from creams to gels and body wraps. It calms the nervous system as well as helps with eczema, and any kind of skin rashes.
Haircare - Very beneficial in shampoos for psoriasis of the scalp.
Suggested Blends - Combined with celery seed oil it is superb for arthritis.
Cautions - Do not use to excess as it can become an emmenagogue so should not be use din pregnancy.
CEDARWOOD ATLAS - cedrus atlantica
A deep, warm and woody note with a hint of camphor. A very useful oil that has a great affinity to lung conditions and can be used to help with catarrh and congestion as well as bronchitis.
Skincare - A superb choice for creams and gels dealing with problem skin especially greasy skin. It very much helps with acne and skin breakouts and even eczema and psoriasis. Fungal infections can respond favourably.
Haircare -A great oil to help with greasy hair and dandruff. It is also reported to help with hair loss. It has a gentle sedative effect that would be lovely when inhaled in a steamy shower.
Suggested Blends - Lavender works well as a synergist enhancing cedarwood's effects. It blends well with all other woody oils like rosewood and adds a depth to floral oils like jasmine, ylang ylang and rose. Very pleasant when combined with petitgrain. Blend with citronella and neroli as an effective mosquito repellant.
Cautions - Best avoided during pregnancy.
CHAMOMILE, CAPE - eriocephalus punctulatus
Not a true chamomile but shares many properties with the other chamomiles and has a chamomile fragrance but sweeter and much more fruity. The main use for the oil is to combat stress and stress related ailments. In this way it will also improve the quality of sleep. It helps to overcome depression by instilling a positive sense of well being. It calms over active emotions and calms over stimulated minds.
Skincare - In common with the other chamomiles, it contains Azulene which is an anti inflammatory as well as an analgesic so is a good choice for creams and gels dealing with inflamed skin such as nappy rash or sunburn or any skin condition where the skin is dehydrated, bruised or irritated.
Haircare - Would make a lovely choice for evening bath products and hair products. As a middle note it enhances lighter and more fragrant aromas.
Suggested Blends - Geranium, lavender, rose, neroli, rosewood, ylang ylang, petitgrain.
Cautions - Do not use the essential oil during pregnancy because it is a uterine stimulant.
CHAMOMILE, GERMAN BLUE - matricaria recutita
A strong aroma that is sweet and herbaceous. is a very good tonic for the spleen so helps with anaemia and immuno problems. A good choice for jet lag as it restores balance and lines things up again. Has a history of usage for menopausal conditions where there is a perceived loss of identity.
Skincare - Aids infected wounds and calms down irritated skin problems like eczema and dermatitis. Be aware of potential dermal irritation though.
Haircare - Use sparingly in shampoos for scalp irritations or eczema.
Suggested Blends - With camphor for rheumatism, with lavender for psoriasis, with mandarin for children's eczema, with calendula infused oil for anti inflammatory creams and gels, with neroli and melissa for shock or when you feel disconnected.
Cautions - Much more potent than Roman Chamomile so be cautious for dermal irritation.
CHAMOMILE ROMAN - chamaemelum nobile
It has an floral, apple- like aroma and is high in the chemical esters making it an oil which is safe to use. It is an effective analgesic so useful in the treatment of toothache, baby teething pains, back pain and itchy insect bites. It is known for its calming and balancing effects on the body's systems generally. It helps with minor depression and is a nerve sedative.
Skincare - Useful in skincare such as gardeners hand creams or gels for areas of inflammation like sunburn. Use for chilblains and areas of neuralgia.
Haircare - Useful in shampoos where the scalp is inflamed and irritated such as hairline psoriasis.
Suggested Blends - Always with lavender as it is such an effective synergist. Often with geranium in skincare as a balancer.
Cautions - None
CHAMPACA ABSOLUTE - michelia champaca
It has a well rounded aroma initially with green top notes followed by softer, more floral tones. Useful as an anti-depressant it is said to soothe and relax the body and strengthen the mind. It's a beautifully seductive fragrance and is widely used in the perfumery industry to create very exotic scents. It is one of the key ingredients in Joy, at one time the world's most costly perfume. In India, it used for relief of vertigo and headaches.
Skincare - In massage therapy, it is used to support healthy joints and muscles and have a reputation as an effective aphrodisiac. It would be an ideal choice to make gels for body wraps or massage oil blends. It is claimed to be an aphrodisiac and it warms, calms, reduces stress, aids breathing and can induce euphoria.
A good choice for pre sports lotions and gels.
In facial products it releases the sternocleidomastoid muscles so is good to help teeth grinder people and those who hold a telephone in the crook of their neck.
Haircare - No specific hair care use other than for fragrance but it does add a beautiful aroma to shampoos, conditioners, hair gels and bath melts that is deeply relaxing.
Suggested Blends - The classic oil it is often combined with is sandalwood and it also has a special affinity to calendula infused oil.
Cautions - Avoid during pregnancy as it is an emmenagogue. Using too much of this oil could impede concentration, as it is a deeply relaxing oil.
CINNAMON LEAF - cinnamomum zeylanicum
A warm, dry and sweet, spicy fragrance that makes many people think of Christmas! It will help a sluggish digestion by stimulating the digestion and is protective of the whole digestive system. It can also be useful with persistent diarrhoea.
Skincare - A good oil for boosting poor circulation and helping with rheumatism so consider for creams and gels for rheumatism.
Haircare - There is no specific hair care benefit but as it helps to boost the immune system and help with Winter chills, it could be a useful daily regime in a shampoo or bath product
Suggested Blends - Mix with blood orange, clove and frankincense for a fragrance that is instantly Christmas. Combines well with all floral oils like ylang ylang. Benzoin adds a wonderful depth and makes it smell more rounded.
Cautions - Do not use the bark oil at oil. This leaf oil can be irritant to mucous membranes so use with caution. Avoid during pregnancy. Do not use with black pepper as combined, they will irritate the skin.
CITRONELLA - cymbopogon winterianus
A fresh and strong lemon fragrance with a woody note. It is the classic essential oil to massage sports men and women with and an effective insect repellent when blended with cedarwood and neroli, especially against mosquitoes. Use it with Emulsifier L to make it sprayable in a lotion. It relieves fatigue making it a good massage choice as well as relieving headaches from fatigue and migraines.
Skincare - A good antiseptic and deodorant that reduces excessive perspiration on sweaty and clammy skin. It can dispel facial neuralgia.
Haircare - Combine with cedarwood and neroli in holiday shampoos to keep insects away. Adds a fresh, citrus lift to any hair product.
Suggested Blends - Cedarwood and neroli as an insect repellent. Blends well with geranium, Scottish highland pine, lemon, bergamot, lime, green mandarin and blood orange.
Cautions - Avoid during pregnancy.
CLARY SAGE - salvia sclarea
A sweet, nutty and green, herbaceous fragrance. It can lower high blood pressure, tone the nervous system and ease muscular aches and pains making it useful in bath melts and massage blends. It is very oriented towards the female reproductive system helping with menopausal problems and vaginal infections. It helps to dispel water retention.
Skincare - It stimulates the blood circulation and regulates seborrhoea whilst being a very effective lymphatic cleanser - all good for skin care products. As part of a blend for eczema but not really for facial eczema.
Haircare - It stimulates the blood circulation so may help in shampoos promoting hair regrowth especially when used with bio energiser.
Suggested Blends - With lavender and rosemary for massage blends.
Cautions - Avoid during pregnancy. Do not use when you have drunk alcohol and it can cause unpleasant side effects. Avoid if you have very low blood pressure.
CLOVE - eugenia caryophyllus
A sweet and spicy fragrance often associated with Christmas and widely used in dentistry as it can temporarily paralyse the tri facial nerve so gives effective pain relief for toothache (don't use internally).
Skincare - It can help as part of a blend as a mosquito repellent but take not of the cautions. Has also been shown to assist with rheumatism and arthritis as well as indigestion.
Haircare - No specific useage but could be added to holiday shampoos that need a mosquito repellent.
Suggested Blends - Often used in perfumery, it blends particularly well with rose as well as lavender, clary sage and ylang ylang.
Cautions
This oil from the flower bud is the least toxic than other clove oils as it contains the least eugenol which can be a dermal irritant but still use in dilutions of less than 1%.
CORIANDER - coriandrum sativum
A strongly aromatic oil with a spicy, sweet and slightly woody, musky aroma that is a very good choice for digestive upsets flatulence and loss of appetite.
Skincare - A useful addition to creams and gels for arthritis especially for local application.
Haircare - Adds a complex fragrance to shampoos but only use in small amounts - see cautions.
Suggested Blends - Blends well with other spice oils like ginger and cinnamon and adds interesting notes to frankincense and clary sage blends. Benefits from a citrus lift from bergamot.
Cautions - Avoid in large doses and do not use in large doses generally. Be aware if you are packing creams you have made that this equals large doses and may affect you.
CYPRESS - cupressus sempervirens
A sweet, balsamic persistent deep note that is slightly smokey. It has a wonderful affinity to the female reproductive system and helps with oedema, painful periods and menopausal conditions. Helps with chesty conditions like flu, coughs and bronchitis.
Skincare - Helps to improve haemorrhoids and varicose veins so use in a leg lotion or tired leg gel for external use only. Helps to control excessive perspiration so good in a deodorant blend. Balances oily and overhydrated skin. Helps as part of a cellulite blend for creams, lotions and gels as well as body wraps.
Haircare - No specific application so use if you like the fragrance.
Suggested Blends - Works well with calendula infused oil as an astringent. Works with hyssop and rosemary for varicose veins but it is a very slow effect.
Cautions - Avoid if you have very high blood pressure or Reynaud's disease as it will constrict the veins.
ELEMI - canarium commune
A light and refreshing fragrance like a spicy lemon with a dry, balsamic undertone. Helpful with chest complaints like a dry cough and can shift excess mucous. A good immunostimulant.
Skincare - Rejuvenates skin especially wrinkles around the eye area so use creams, gels, lotions and serums as well as body wraps. Good for reducing scars. Calms nervous exhaustion and leaves a feeling of peace and calm so ideal to include in massage lotions and oil blends. As it is antifungal, use in foot creams. Very healing for eczema and psoriasis and also repairs some of the scar damage that may have been done.
Haircare - No direct haircare useage.
Suggested Blends - With spikenard in eye area serums. With frankincense hydrosol and the oil in mature skin care. With myrrh to shift stubborn mucous.
Cautions - May irritate very sensitive skin.
EUCALYPTUS LEMON SCENTED - eucalyptus citriodora
A delightful fresh and lemony fragrance that is a wonderful air freshener, clearing the air and killing germs. Fumigates a room well especially after floods or damp carpets to get rid of that musty smell. It has been used clinically against Staphylococcus Aureus. Whilst having similar properties to all the other eucalypts, this one seems to be best at dealing with sore throats and laryngitis. It is soothing and calming and assists long term recuperation. It is a urinary antiseptic and increases urinary flow and eases shingles pain.
Skincare - Strongly anti fungal it is an obvious choice for foot creams and gels to combat and prevent athletes foot.
Haircare - A great oil to add to anti dandruff shampoos and conditioners.
Suggested Blends - With patchouli and cedarwood as an insect repellent.
Cautions - None
EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS - eucalyptus globulus
Often known as Blue Gum Eucalyptus, it has a strong camphoraceous smell with a deeper woody note. A very powerful oil for lung conditions and can be used in creams or gels to rub on the chest. Helps with post viral weakness and neuralgia that often slows recovery.
Skincare - Useful for all wounds, insect bites, blisters and skin infections but do not use on open wounds. It improves poor circulation and helps with muscular aches and pains, sprains and even rheumatoid arthritis. Use in creams, lotions, gels and butters.
Haircare - As an insect repellent for holiday shampoos.
Suggested Blends - With lavender to heal burns. As a sick room cleanser with thyme, rosemary, tea tree or Fragonia.
Cautions - Do not use on open wounds and never use internally even as a mouth wash. May antidote homoeopathic remedies.
EUCALYPTUS POLYBRACTEA - eucalyptus polybractea
Often referred to as Blue Mallee it has a fresh camphoraceous note with a hint of peppermint. It is a much fresher and more pleasant smell than the globulus and is more easily assimilated. This oil contains more cineol than the globulus variety and cineole controls airway mucous hypersecretion so is the better choice for chest problems as well as being highly antiseptic.
Skincare - It is anti inflammatory and analgesic so good to use in massage lotions and ointments.
Haircare - With spearmint as an insect repellent in a holiday shampoo.
Suggested Blends - With frankincense and myrrh to shift stubborn catarrh and chest mucous.
Cautions - None
EUCALYPTUS RADIATA- eucalyptus radiata
Perhaps the most versatile of all the eucalypts, it is softer and more suited to use with children and the elderly. This can also include everyone else who wants a more gentle approach than globulus gives. It can be inhaled directly to ease chest congestion and shift mucous. It does not trigger the cough reflex like globulus can. Choose radiate over globulus when the chest infection appears to be higher in the chest. A very gentle way to clear blocked sinuses and a good immuno stimulant, it is beneficial to people who are run down or prone to frequent infections.
Skincare - Very useful in foot creams to give the whole body a systemic application through the feet reflexes. It is anti inflammatory and good for aching joints and muscles so include in gardeners hand creams, arthritis and rheumatism creams and gels.
Haircare - The best of the eucalypts for repelling insects so ideal for holiday shampoos, conditioners and gels.
Suggested Blends - Combine with bergapten free bergamot and use neat on cold sores.
Cautions - None
EUCALYPTUS SMITHII - eucalyptus smithii
The mildest of all the eucalyptus oils, it is the best choice for very young children. Very good for diffusing in a sick room and as a preventative for the respiratory and immune systems. Interestingly, it can be both a stimulant when used in the mornings yet a sedative when used in the evenings.
Skincare - It is well tolerated by the skin and makes a superb massage blend for general aches and pains whilst being a good immuno stimulant. It can be used neat on the skin in small amounts.
Haircare - Use in shampoos as a general prophylactic and immuno stimulant. Gives a fresh zing to morning showers yet also good to use in the evening as well.
Suggested Blends - With Fragonia as a general preventative and protector of the respiratory and immune system.
Cautions - None
FRAGONIA - agonis fragrans
It is an extremely balanced oil that has a near perfect 1:1:1 ration of oxides, monoterpenes, and monoterpenols which so far seems to be unique in aromatherapy. This ratio also appears as a fractal or golden section. It is a gentle oil that is safe enough to use on children. A great choice for all respiratory disorders as well as sinus problems and throat infections especially when used in steam inhalations as an expectorant. It is reported to have a powerful effect on deep seated emotions and blockages. It helps with digestive disorders including candida as it is an effective anti fungal. It is considered to be a good immuno tonic. Ongoing research is showing promising results for problems around the female reproductive system and has been used to help menstrual pain, depression, fatigue, insomnia and breast tenderness. Seems to work well with jet lag by regulating the pineal gland.
Skincare - As a powerful anti inflammatory, it is an obvious addition to arthritis and rheumatism creams and gels. A strong antimicrobial makes it suitable for lotions and gels for after waxing as well and also as general healthy skincare. A great choice for massage blends as it releases tension and is analgesic to muscle and joint aches and pains. It releases tension and calms the mind. The quality of the sleep is improved when Fragonia is used at night time. As an effective anti fungal, it is an obvious choice for foot creams, lotions and gels.
Haircare - Use in shampoos for a fresh zing that releases tensions and gives mental clarity. Very fresh when used with spearmint.
Suggested Blends - With Eucalyuptrus Smithii to boost and support immune function. With Frangipani for an exotic fragrance but it blends well with a surprising number of oils and it adds such a useful dimension to many products so experiment!
Cautions - None.
FRANGIPANI ABSOLUTE - plumeria rubra
It has a heavy, sweet and floral, green fragrance that is very complex with an exotic hint of spice that is an absolute delight to smell. On a subtle / esoteric level, frangipani can make you feel very comfortable with yourself and give inner peace, self awareness and confidence. For this reason it is often used in terminal care although it should not be thought of in a morbid way at all. Frequently, it can release tension in a situation and make you laugh.
Skincare - Adds a stunningly beautiful fragrance to skin creams and lotions whilst being emotionally uplifting. Because of its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant skin refreshing properties, it is excellent for use in night creams or lotions and other preventative preparations, as well as deep cleansing lotions.
Haircare - Add to shampoos, hair packs, conditioners and gels for a deeply sensual and long lasting fragrance. You don't need to add a lot to get an amazing effect.
Suggested Blends - With Fragonia and many other oils. Experiment and see.
Cautions - None
FRANKINCENSE - boswellia sp.
A useful skincare oil that helps to keep wrinkles at bay as well as enhance the breathing. Traditionally used by aromatherapists to clear morbid conditions and grubby catarrh. The resin has been long used in churches and rituals as it causes the diaphragm to drop and so slows down and deepens the breathing. A good choice for meditations and intense work including rituals. Often considered to be protective and clears negativity.
Skincare - A very good choice for dry and mature skin to help keep wrinkles at bay in face and body products. Works well in creams, lotions, gels as well as wraps. Use as a base note in small amounts to cover the smell of other useful oils such as Elemi and Spikenard for eye area products.
Haircare - A small amount gives a good base note that will mask any strong smelling raw materials like sea silk. Include some fresh citrus top notes to get a good, fresh balance.
Suggested Blends - With Frangipani to get a wonderful emotional lift that clears negativity. With Cinnamon, Clove and Blood Orange or Mandarin for an evocative scent of Christmas. With Elemi and Spikenard for anti wrinkle eye area products.
Cautions - None
GERANIUM - pelargonium graveolens
A classic essential oil that is best when used in very small amounts and available in several chemotypes. It can often restore a loss of smell and is used holistically to unblock creativity whilst grounding people who need it. It helps with depression and nervous tension. It stimulates and cleanses the sinuses. Useful to help with haemorrhoids, menopausal symptoms, PMS as well as prostate problems for men.
Skincare - It is superb for oxygenating facial skin especially where there are broken capillaries and veins. it balances the production of sebum in the skin, while keeping it supple and helping with the healing of wounds. Superb to clear congested skin, dermatitis and eczema. Works particularly well on oily and mature skin. It promotes the circulation and is a good lymphatic cleanser so helps with oedema and cellulite and can be used in creams, gels and body wraps.
Haircare - Combines beautifully with lavender and rosemary for a herbal shampoo and conditioner. Good as an insect repellent and against head lice.
Suggested Blends - With Melissa for hayfever and with calendula vegetable oil as an astringent. With lavender and rosemary for herbal shampoos and body washes.
Cautions - Using too large amounts can cause localised dermatitis. As it can balance the hormonal system, possibly best to avoid during pregnancy.
GINGER - zingiber officinale
A great warming oil for all "itis" conditions that are marked by cold like rheumatoid arthritis where the joints feel cold. A natural tonic for the lungs and stomach and helps with diarrhoea, indigestion, nausea, loss of appetite and travel sickness. Excellent in a Winter footbath - combine with foam bath emulsifier. It encourages sweating and dries up cold and damp in the body so helps to clear catarrh and congestion.
Skincare - Any creams and gels for cold joints like rheumatoid arthritis. Great in massage lotions and oils for fatigue and muscular aches and pains.
Haircare - No specific usage but try blending for fragrance.
Suggested Blends - With St. John's Wort infused oil for poor circulation in the extremities. For fragrancing, blends well with a number of oils but notably the deeper more woody notes and citrus.
Cautions - Do not use on hot, inflamed conditions. Do not use in pregnancy or if menopausal. No point in using with refrigerants such as benzoin, spearmint and peppermint.
GRAPEFRUIT - citrus paradisi
A fresh and zingy oil that stimulates the appetite and is uplifting and helps to lift chills and flu like symptoms.
Skincare - A great oil for cellulite and fluid retention so use in creams, gels and body wraps. Also consider it in foot creams and gels to help with oedema. It tones the skin and helps to clear oily and congested skin as well as acne so well suited for teenage skincare lotions and gels. In massage lotions and oils it eases muscles fatigue, general stiffness and helps with performance stress so is great for after workout gels and lotions.
Haircare - It promotes hair growth so combine with Bio Energiser and use in shampoos.
Suggested Blends - With avocado oil to give a mental lift and nourishment when weak and convalescing. It blends well with any number of citrus oils as well as more floral notes. With grapefruit in creams, gels and body wraps for cellulite.
Cautions - Be aware that it may affect some HIV medications and should be avoided by anyone on medications that are calcium channel blockers. It can oxidise quickly so use it up rather than store it.
HELICHRYSUM - helichrysum italicum
A strongly honey like fragrance with a hint of tea. Ideal for nervous exhaustion and it can lift lethargy and depression.
Skincare - A great choice for muscular aches and pains and sprained muscles so use in massage lotions and gels pre and post sport. Eases the neuralgia with arthritis and rheumatism so add to gels and creams. It clears liver congestion so automatically clears the skin as well. It is well known for its ability to heal scars and bruising and even speed the healing of broken bones. Effective on acne and skin wounds including rosacea, dermatitis and eczema. It is antifungal so ideal in a foot cream and as it helps neuralgia as well, good for tired and aching feet.
Haircare - Use in shampoos and conditioners for eczema and dermatitis.
Suggested Blends - With St. John's Wort infused oil and lavender for bruising. With rosehip infused oil for scarring. With chamomile for inflammations. With fragonia to resolve past stuff.
Cautions - None.
HO LEAF - cinnamomum camphora
A slightly spicy, sweet, woody and floral scent that is sometimes called Ravintsara (not the same as Ravensara) but as this variety is from China, it is best called Ho Leaf. The tree grows in Madagascar as well as China but produces 2 very different oils. This is the Chinese oil that is more commonly known as Ho Leaf and has similar properties to Rosewood. A gentle oil that is soothing to the mind and appears to balance the emotions.
Skincare - As a general tonic for the body is relieves fatigue so is a good choice is massage lotions and oil blends especially after excercise. Being antibacterial and antifungal it is ideal for use in foot creams. Is a cellular regenerator so good for general skincare.
Haircare - Antibacterial and antifungal make this a good choice for shampoos for psoriasis and eczema as well as dermatitis of the scalp.
Suggested Blends - With fragonia in foot creams. With helichrysum in shampoos for dermatitis.
Cautions - None.
HYACINTH ABSOLUTE - hyacinthus orientalis
An incredibly exotic and heady fragrance that has a lot of depth. A complex oil which brings on calm and forgiveness. It has been used by aromatherapists to enhance the right hemisphere of the brain bringing about greater creativity and improved self esteem.
Skincare - Relieves tension from the facial muscles and the neck and shoulders. Ideal for use in creams, gels, lotions and masques.
Haircare - No specific haircare usage but makes any shampoo or conditioner smell incredibly luxurious.
Suggested Blends - With champaca for facial massage and products.
Cautions - None.
HYSSOP - hyssopus officinalis
A sweet, camphoraceous oil with a warm and herby base. A good oil to relieve the symptoms of SAD (seasonal affective disorder). Helps with all chest complaints like asthma and bronchitis by removing stubborn mucous in the respiratory tract.
Skincare - A very good blood cleanser so useful in skincare creams, lotions and gels as well as body wraps. Helps with dermatitis and bruising.
Haircare - No specific useage in haircare products.
Suggested Blends - With eucalyptus, ravensara, niaouli and cajeput for respiratory problems. With cypress and rosemary for varicose veins in leg lotions and gels but note the warnings below.
Cautions - Use in moderation and do not use with high blood pressure, epilepsy or in pregnancy.
JASMINE ABSOLUTE - jasminum grandiflorum
There are 42 varieties of jasmine recorded in India and this grandiflorum is the one most commonly thought of as true jasmine; very feminine, soft, sweet and floral. 400 blossoms are hand picked in the dawn to produce one single drop of oil. Use on sensitive skin as well as dry or greasy skin. It calms and relaxes the mind and body and is useful for stress related conditions such as nervous exhaustion and mild depression where it can instil feelings of optimism and confidence - some people even say euphoria! Perhaps this is also why it has a long traditional use as an aphrodisiac and it is very good at calming feelings of anxiety. It takes the emotional edge of PMS and the menopause as well as reduces cramping.
Skincare - Use on sensitive skin as well as dry or greasy skin. It calms and relaxes the mind and body and is useful for stress related conditions such as nervous exhaustion and mild depression where it can instil feelings of optimism and confidence - some people even say euphoria! Perhaps this is also why it has a long traditional use as an aphrodisiac and it is very good at calming feelings of anxiety.
Haircare - Very calming and relaxing in hair products but be aware that a little goes a long way as a fragrance.
Suggested Blends - Blends very well with Rose and Ylang Ylang as an aphrodisiac. With geranium to regulate sebum production in the skin. With shea butter oil on stretch marks or scars.
Cautions - Do not use on psoriasis or eczema. Do not use during pregnancy or if trying to conceive. Contact a qualified aromatherapist if wanting to use in the late stages of pregnancy. Do not combine with marjoram.
JASMINE SAMBAC ABSOLUTE - jasmin sambac
There are 42 varieties of jasmine recorded in India and the Sambac variety is lighter and more floral than the deeper grandiflorum species. Despite being lighter, it is more musky and masculine. It takes 400 hand picked blossoms to produce each single drop of oil. The flowers bloom late in the evening whereas the grandiflorum flowers bloom in the dawn. Uplifting whilst calming and relaxing, the sensual fragrance adds a hint of the exotic to products and blends. Use on sensitive skin as well as dry or greasy skin. It calms and relaxes the mind and body and is useful for stress related conditions such as nervous exhaustion and mild depression where it can instil feelings of optimism and confidence - some people even say euphoria! Perhaps this is also why it has a long traditional use as an aphrodisiac and it is very good at calming feelings of anxiety.
Skincare - A good choice for any sensitive skin as well as dry or greasy skin. It can soothe red, hot or itchy skin but is not appropriate on psoriasis or eczema. It improves scar tissue and stretch makes as well as the elasticity of the skin.
Haircare - Very calming and relaxing in hair products but be aware that a little goes a long way as a fragrance.
Suggested Blends - Blends very well with Rose and Ylang Ylang as an aphrodisiac. With frankincense, vetivert and sandalwood for a very masculine fragrance with sensual depth.
Cautions - Do not use on psoriasis or eczema. Do not use during pregnancy or if trying to conceive. Contact a qualified aromatherapist if wanting to use in the late stages of pregnancy. Do not combine with marjoram.
JUNIPER BERRY - juniperus communis
A sweet fresh and woody aroma. The berry oil is more refined in its effects than the needle oil.
Useful with urinary tract infections and is a powerful diuretic so helps to relieve menstrual oedema and swelling as well as PMS. Helps with haemorrhoids and enlargement of the prostate.
Skincare - It is a good blood cleanser and cleans up sluggish skin via the blood. It expels uric acid so would be useful in creams and gels for gout. It balances oily skin.
Haircare - Helps against lice, ticks and fleas in a shampoo. It balances greasy hair.
Suggested Blends - With grapefruit in body creams, gels and body wraps for cellulite. With St. John's Wort infused oil for gout. With geranium to balance oily skin or greasy hair.
Cautions - Do not use during pregnancy or with any form of kidney disease.
LAVANDIN SUPER - lavandula x intermedia
Lavandin is not a true lavender as such as it is the result of wild growing Spike Lavender crossing with wild growing Aspic Lavender. This does happen naturally but the resulting plant is a hybrid and as such only lasts for that generation as it is unable to seed itself. Farmers clone the plant to keep it in production as the plant produces much more oil than true lavender does. The fragrance is very similar but sharper. Chemically speaking, Lavandin Super is the lavandin closest to true lavender oil. It is a soothing, antispasmodic and relaxing oil when used in small amounts and often found to be more of a relaxant than true lavender. It is very potent for easing migraines and headaches. It will clear the lungs and sinuses of phlegm.
Skincare - This oil is high in esters which makes it superbly relaxing for tired and aching muscles so include in massage lotions and oil blends as well as bath melts and bath bombs. It helps calm down skin irritations like dermatitis very well.
Haircare - More pungent than true lavender so shows through stronger in a shampoo.
Suggested Blends - With geranium and rosemary for a herbal fragrance in a shampoo.
Cautions - None.
LAVENDER FINE POPULATION - lavandula angustifolia
When lavender is grown at over 1400 meters, the plant produces more esters. If the oil is also distilled at high altitude, there is a lower air pressure so a lower temperature can be used and therefore more of the very volatile chemicals come through from the plant to the oil. It is more than worth all the effort as this is a very superb oil.
Detailed Description - The list of properties for lavender is one of the longest of all the aromatherapy oils. Some people get confused what to use it for and one of the best things it does is to act as a synergist. Whatever the attributes of the other essential oils in a blend, lavender seems to make those oils work even harder by being included. The high altitude lavender seems to work better on the emotional aspects of a problem.
Skincare - The number one choice to use on minor burns and skin problems. It is the classic aromatherapy oil to use in massage lotions and oil blends as well as skincare creams, lotions, gels and body wraps. It is calming to the nerves and nervous tension and can assist with depression. Effective for letting go of nervous exhaustion it seems to work best in small amounts. It's a good analgesic for muscular aches and pains especially sports related injuries as well as rheumatism and arthritis. It works very well with rose for mature skincare.
Haircare - No specific useage for haircare but always adds a wonderful depth and fragrance to shampoos and conditioners.
Suggested Blends
With geranium as the classic skincare blend for all creams, lotions, gels and body wraps. With lemongrass for sports massage lotions and oil blends. With rosemary and geranium for a herbal shampoo. With spearmint and St' John's Wort for sunburn and skin irritations or after waxing.
Cautions - None.
LEMON - citrus limonum
A classic essential oil with a fresh smell of the lemon peel. A superb liver cleanser and also clears the gall bladder and bile duct. It also helps with anaemia and stimulates white blood cell production.
Skincare - It tightens facial tissue and so is useful against wrinkles. Good to use on acne and greasy or problem skin. Add to cellulite blends for creams, gels and body wraps. Helps to improve the circulation and helps in creams and gels for arthritis and rheumatism.
Haircare - Adds a real zing to morning shampoos and body washes.
Suggested Blends - With juniper and grapefruit for cellulite. With all citrus oils and it lifts the fragrance of some of the heavier oils like frankincense and chamomile.
Cautions - Can be midly phototoxic and could possibly irritate some sensitive skins.
LEMONGRASS - cymbopogon citrata
A very fresh, sweet lemon fragrance. A very fresh oil that revitalises the mind and body -ideal to use with jet lag. An excellent choice for convalescence. Effective with chest infections and throat irritations. Antispasmodic for colitis and helps with digestive upsets by stimulating the digestion.
Skincare - It tones the muscles and makes them more supple so is ideal in massage lotions and oil blends. Very good to use in pre and post sports gels and lotions. Clears up acne and helps with oily skin. Good to use in foot creams and gels for athlete's foot. It's a good general tonic but also works with cellulite so include in body wraps and treatment gels. A good skin toner that reduces pore size.
Haircare - A good insect repellent so use in holiday shampoos as well as with greasy hair.
Suggested Blends - With cypress and grapefruit in cellulite gels and lotions. With fragonia in foot creams. With rosehip for reducing pore size. With rosemary in shampoos and shower gels.
Cautions - Avoid during pregnancy as it may irritate sensitive skin.
LEMON MYRTLE - backhousia citriodora F. Muell
A very refreshing and clean lemon fragrance that is also a very powerful antibacterial oil; excellent at cleansing a house to keep coughs and other infections down. It strengthens the immune system, relieves chest congestion and is very uplifting to the emotions.
Skincare - A superb choice for oily skin and acne so include in teenage products or creams, lotions and gels for problem skin. Good in cleansers, masques and body wraps. Being a strong antifungal means it would be ideal in foot creams and gels. Always use it sparingly as the high citral content could sensitise the skin.
Haircare - No direct haircare useage.
Suggested Blends - With lemon scented tea tree and niaouli for chest infections, coughs and colds.
Cautions - May sensitise some people's skin.
LEMON SCENTED TEA TREE - leptosperum petersonii
Actually related to Manuka this oil has a bright and clear lemon scent. This oil is excellent as an insect repellent even when used on it's own. It lifts anxiety and stress and can even help with depression and nervous tension.
Skincare - Works well with oily skin and acne so include as past of a blend for teenage creams, lotions and gels as well as treatment masques. It has been shown to be active against Aspergillus Niger, Candida Albicans and Staphylococcus so could be incorporated into a sanitising hand gel.
Haircare - Would be a good choice to add to holiday shampoos to keep mosquitoes and midges away.
Suggested Blends - With lemon myrtle and niaouli for chest infections, coughs and colds.
Cautions - None.
LIME - citrus aurantifolia
A fresh and sweet oil that smells just like you have peeled a lime. A very effective liver stimulant and cleanser. Helps with chest infections as it cuts through thick exhudations. Eases stomach cramps and relieves indigestion.
Skincare - Good to use on acne and greasy or problem skin. Add to cellulite blends for creams, gels and body wraps.
Haircare - Gives a fresh lift to shampoos and body washes.
Suggested Blends - With all the citrus oils as well as rosemary and lavender.
Cautions - Photoxic.
LINDEN BLOSSOM - A stunningly beautiful fragrance that seems to appeal to everyone. Sometimes used in very high class perfumery, it softly releases tension and other stress related conditions. In Europe, the tea from the leaves is drunk as a relaxant.
Skincare - A great choice in skincare to release tension in the face and makes any cream or lotion smell extravagantly expensive!
Haircare - Try a small amount in a shampoo first as the hot water and steam will release the fragrance greatly. A superb choice for leave on products like conditioners as only a small amount needs to be used.
Suggested Blends - Already smells like a complex perfume blend to start with so choose other florals or woody notes carefully to enhance the fragrance rather than overwhelm it.
Cautions - None.
MANDARIN - citrus reticulata
A very fragrant smell of the fresh fruit peel. Often used at the beginning and end of life ie with childbirth and in hospice care. It's a very gentle oil that is a tonic for the elderly and gives strength. It also helps with digestive problems.
Skincare - An excellent choice in pregnancy to help combat stretch marks especially when combined with shea butter or shea butter oil. Helps to clear oily and congested skin
Haircare - Try combining with other citrus oils for a St Clements shampoo or body wash. Can also use in baby shampoos but best to use Beta for the shampoo.
Suggested Blends - With chamomile for childrens eczema.
Cautions - Slight risk of phototoxicity.
MANDARIN, GREEN - citrus reticulata
A tangy, fresh, citrus smelling oil with a green note. Amazingly fresh! A very safe oil that is good to use on those with delicate dispositions such as babies, sick children, pregnant women, and the elderly. It is fantastic for digestive problems as it is a digestive stimulant and mild antispasmodic therefore very useful for children and babies with upset stomachs and trapped gas. It is a tonic for the stomach and is used to calm the intestines. It is also stimulating to the liver and can help to regulate metabolic processes and may also aid the breakdown of fats. It soothes restlessness and calms nervous energy. It is antidepressant, uplifting, refreshing, and alleviates anxiety especially when emotionally exhausted from shock and grief.
Skincare - As a liver stimulant, it will of course also benefit the skin. It helps with water retention and is a good lymphatic cleanser so ideal in gels and wraps for a beauty spa. It makes an excellent addition to detoxifying baths with Dead Sea Salts.
Haircare - No direct use for the hair but makes a wonderfully uplifting shampoo and body wash. Can also be used in baby bath products but best used with Beta.
Suggested Blends - With cypress and grapefruit for cellulite creams, gels and wraps. With lavender and sandalwood for massage lotions.
Cautions - None.
MANUKA, WILD - leptospermum scoparium
A similar fragrance to tea tree oil but softer and more honey like and is a must have for every first aid box.
Skincare - Antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal yet more pleasant than tea tree makes this an ideal choice to add to foot creams, gels for problem skins and body wraps for overall health. Very effective with gram positive bacteria, streptococcus and staphylococcus means this would be a good sanitising gel for use in a sick room or in your own practice. Relieves aching muscles and joints so include in massage lotions and oil blends. Has also been used this way to assist ME symptoms. There is also a lot of aromatherapists who use it to tone the skin if it is very sensitive. Using manuka seems to make the skin more resilient so it is less likely to react so much or develop a rash.
Haircare - Include in shampoos and conditioners for dandruff and itchy scalp.
Suggested Blends - With St. John's Wort infused oil, lavender and chamomile to relieve the stinging and itching of mild sunburn.
Cautions - None.
MARJORAM, SWEET - origanum marjorana
A warm and woody, camphoraceous smelling oil. It can help with tight, nervous headaches as well as insomnia. It can also enhance dream recall or bring things up from the past. It tones the reproductive system but is actually an anaphrodisiac. As it helps muscular spasms it can ease colic and constipation. It increases circulation by dilating arteries so should be avoided with varicose veins.
Skincare - It tones the liver which is always good for skincare. It helps with cramps and muscular pains so include in creams, gels and massage lotions for arthritis and rheumatism as well as other muscular problems like MS and ME.
Haircare - No specific haircare useage.
Suggested Blends - With St. John's Wort infused oil and Fragonia for rheumatism as an analgesic. With Fragonia for dealing with past emotional issues.
Cautions - Do not use during pregnancy, with jasmine essential oil or with varicose veins. Can be phototoxic.
MAY CHANG FRUIT - litsea cubeba
A sweet and sharp fragrant oil that smells similar to lemongrass but softer. It's antispasmodic and often used for indigestion especially when very gassy. Can also assist breathing problems.
Skincare - Very geared towards greasy skin and acne as well as dermatitis. It is calming and anti inflammatory but only use in low dilutions and not on broken skin as it may irritate. Helps to control excessive perspiration so consider using in body wraps.
Haircare - Is an insect repellent so could be used in holiday shampoos. It also fixes the fragrance of the more volatile citrus oils like grapefruit.
Suggested Blends - With frankincense and rosemary to help deepen the breathing.
Cautions - Can irritate sensitive skins so best to avoid during pregnancy.
MARJORAM, SPANISH - thymus mastichina
Actually a member of the thyme family but commonly referred to as Spanish Marjoram. Smells much more camphoraceous than the Sweet Marjoram. A good decongestant when inhaled.
Skincare - Is anti fungal so a good choice for foot creams and gels. A very good muscle relaxant so use in massage lotions and oil blends.
Haircare - No specific haircare useage.
Suggested Blends - With chamomile and lavender as a sedative.
Cautions - Do not use during pregnancy.
MELISSA - melissa officinalis
A very light and fresh lemony scent. Many commercial Melissa oils are in fact blends of citronella and lemongrass. It takes 3 tonnes of herb material to make a half kilo of this true Melissa oil hence the price. A very good strengthener of the adrenal glands which will help with allergic reactions. It strengthens the uterus and can assist with irregular periods and period pains especially when blended with geranium. It sedates and calms the mind especially with panic attacks or hysteria and can help with depression whilst also being uplifting. It brings acceptance and understanding and so is often used in the final stages of hospice care. It can also ease palpitations. It is a powerful antiviral against many flu strains, herpes, smallpox and mumps. Helpful with nausea and indigestion especially if that is of a nervous origin.
Skincare - Good for fighting cold sores so useful to add to lip glosses or lip roll-ons. The heat of a beeswax lip balm may reduce the effect of this oil.
Haircare - No specific useage but in a shampoo it could be a very calm way to start the day.
Suggested Blends - With sandalwood to tone the adrenal glands. With rose otto for shingles and cold sores. With geranium for period pains.
Cautions - Do not use with low blood pressure or fennel. Avoid using on sensitive skin or during pregnancy as some people can have dermal irritation.
MYRRH - commiphora myrrha
A warm, rich, slightly spicy, medicinal odour. A superb choice where there are thick exudations or lots of mucous like thick, caked throats or with gingivitis. It cleanses the mouth and gums after dental work. It will shift stubborn catarrh and help dry out upper respiratory tract infections.
Skincare - Combining it with calendula base oil as as antifungal for athletes foot would be a great addition to foot creams and gels. It is also good for chapped and cracked skin so include it is gardeners hand creams as well. Helps stops the itching with weeping eczema. It can also help with haemorrhoids in a gel or cream base. It will sort out "jock itch" so include in sports lotions and gels for men.
Haircare - No specific hair care useage.
Suggested Blends - With calendula infused oil as an antifungal. With frankincense for cleaning a room on an esoteric level.
Cautions - Do not use in excess and not at all during pregnancy.
MYRTLE - myrtus communis L
A fresh, sweet, camphoraceous smell that is similar to eucalyptus. A very gentle oil useful for chest conditions and coughs that is safe enough for children. It is often used for its emotional cleansing and helps meditation but also with addictive or self destructive behaviour. It's a mild sedative so can be used for insomnia.
Skincare - Very good astringent useful for reducing open pores and helping oily skin and acne so use in creams, lotions, gels and masques. As it is balancing in its effect, it can be used for all skin types and is quite revitalising. Very relaxing for massage lotions and oil blends.
Haircare - No direct haircare useage but the fresh fragrance is wonderful in a shampoo or body wash.
Suggested Blends - With rosehip oil for open pores. With cypress for external haemorrhoids. With fragonia and bergamot when dealing with self destructive or addictive behaviour like smoking. With geranium to balance oily skin.
Cautions - None.
NEROLI - citrus aurantium
A light, sweet and floral fragrance with a dry undertone. A light oil that actually packs quite a heavyweight effect. Very good for depression especially when feeling low with viruses or infections. Helps with insomnia that often accompanies such depression. Can help with some migraines of the flashing light in front of the eyes type. It helps on a mental and physical level to get shock out of the body. It can help ulcers (internal and external) if they are caused by the nervous system as well as soothing a nervous digestion. It is a gentle lift for PMT blues.
Skincare - One of the ultimate oils for skincare. Very delicate and suited to more mature skins (over 35!) as it tones the skin and helps to reduce wrinkles. Use in all creams, lotions and gels for moisturing even sensitive skin. Helps with scars and stretch marks so ideal in body butters for pregnancy or people who have lost weight. Excellent in face masques as it will not irritate when left on the face near the nose and eyes whilst helping thread veins. It helps with atrophying muscles and nervous spasms so ideal for massage lotions and oils pre sports or for muscles affected by MS or ME. Neroli balances sebum production so is a great choice for oil skin as well as dry skin.
Haircare - No direct haircare useage but as it helps with depression and sleep, what a wonderful thing to add to shampoos, bubble baths and bath melts for a relaxing end of the day.
Suggested Blends - With chamomile and melissa to "reconnect" the head and body when feeling separated like after illness or shock. With rosemary after a stroke with medical approval if needed. With walnut vegetable oil to assist with dyslexia. With rosemary for atrophying muscles.
Cautions - None.
NIOULI, CINEOL TYPE - melaleuca viridiflora
A sweet, fresh camphoraceous smell. Very much an oil dealing with infections like whooping cough, cystitis and urinary tract infections, sore throats and sinusitis. It is a strong decongestant and is a good support oil to help with asthma and bronchitis. Can alleviate catarrh.
Skincare - Helps to improve poor circulation, clear acne, spots and boils and well as ease muscular aches and pains so would be ideal to use in massage lotions and oils for pre and post sport as well and general well being.
Haircare - No specific haircare useage.
Suggested Blends - With Fragonia, rosemary and lavender in a massage blend. With peppermint and eucalyptus when fighting off a cold to clear the head.
Cautions - None.
ORANGE - citrus sinensis
A fresh and fruiy oil from the rind of the sweet orange that is safe for children as well as the elderly and frail. A gentle sedative that can release emotional states of tension as well as some hormonal changes.
Skincare - Helps to brighten dull and oily complexions so ideal in teenage and problem skin lotions and gels. Helps to shift water retention so good with grapefruit in body wraps.
Haircare - No specific haircare useage but is wonderfully refreshing with grapefruit and lime in a shampoo or body wash.
Suggested Blends - All citrus oils as well as frankincense and the spice oils like cinnamon and cardamom.
Cautions - None.
ORANGE, BLOOD - citrus sinensis
More intensely sweet and fragrant than Orange essential oil that is a gentle oil safe for children as well as the elderly and frail. A gentle sedative that can release emotional states of tension as well as some hormonal changes. It is the most anti depressant of all the citrus oils.
Skincare - Helps to brighten dull and oily complexions so ideal in teenage and problem skin lotions and gels. Helps to shift water retention so good with grapefruit in body wraps.
Haircare - No specific haircare useage but is wonderfully refreshing with grapefruit and lime in a shampoo or body wash.
Suggested Blends - All citrus oils as well as frankincense and the spice oils like cinnamon and cardamom.
Cautions - None.
PALMAROSA - cymbopogon martini
A sweet floral fragrance with a hint of rose and geranium with a dry undertone. An uplifting oil that calms the mind and clears confusion as well. It soothes the digestive system especially if it has been affected by nervous tension as well as active at clearing intestinal infections.
Skincare - Excellent skincare properties as it moisturises the skin and balances hydration levels. It balances sebum production so useful for all skin types and keeps the skin supple and flexible. Excellent for acne as it is a cellular regenerator and helps with old acne scars and pits. Relieves stiff and sore muscles and calms nervous exhaustion so an ideal choice for massage lotions and oil blends.
Haircare - As it is highly anti infectious is could be a useful addition to any shampoo for scalp irritations or dermatitis.
Suggested Blends - With Fragonia in a foot cream as it is a strong anti fungal and so helps with athlete's foot.
Cautions - None.
PATCHOULI - pogostemon cablin
A very thick oil with a rich, herby and earthy odour that is considered to be an aphrodisiac. A very potent oil that works best when used in small amounts particularly with anxiety and depression as it feels like a weight has been lifted off your shoulders. Great when someone has taken on more than they can cope with.
Skincare - Very good for all skin care formulations using creams, lotions and gels. It reduces wrinkles and open pores by toning and tightening the skin. Works very well with sandalwood for more mature skin or the thicker texture of a man's skin. A strong base note so very good to cover stronger smells like Sea Silk. Works well on athlete's foot and fungal infections so an excellent ingredient for foot creams. Soothes chapped and cracked skin so ideal in gardeners hand creams. Calming to dermatitis.
Haircare - Regulates oily skin and dandruff. Adds a deeply evocative note to shampoos especially with lavender and geranium.
Suggested Blends - With Fragonia in foot creams and gels. With lavender and geranium in shampoos.
Cautions - None.
PEPPERMINT - mentha piperita
A great oil to have in the first aid kit and one of the best oils to deal with issues of the stomach and lungs. All sorts of indigestion, cramps and painful periods, IBS spasms, colic, flatulence and nausea - even nausea from chemotherapy treatments. Clears the head of congestion and catarrh from colds and flu temporaily. It will relieve some migraines, especially those stemming from digestive disorders. It can also clear the sinuses.
Skincare - Too much can be a dermal irritant but if used at less than 1% it makes a soothing leg lotion of gel for after waxing as it is also a refrigerant. A good choice in a massage lotion or oil blend for sore muscles and aching joints as it is also an analgesic.
Haircare - Used at less than 1% it is very tingly yet soothing to an itchy scalp in a shampoo.
Suggested Blends
With St. John's Wort infused oil, chamomile and lavender as a soothing gel or lotion for sunburn.
Cautions - May irritate mucous membranes. Can be a dermal irritant if used in excess. Use with caution in pregnancy. Can antidote homoeopathic remedies.
PETITGRAIN - citrus aurantium
Often called poor man's neroli, petitgrain is a superb oil in its own right. It is a core component of classical eau de cologne. Helps with dyspepsia and flatulence and anxiety related digestive problems. It helps with many stress related conditions and is an ideal tonic for convalescence.
Skincare - A great oil for oily skin to rebalance the sebum production. Incorporate into acne creams, lotions and gels as well as masques to help heal skin blemishes. Regulates excessive perspiration so useful in body wraps.
Haircare - Use in a shampoo formulated for oily hair.
Suggested Blends - With geranium to rebalance sebum production in the skin. With sandalwood and jasmine for more mature skin.
Cautions - None.
PINE, AUSTRIAN - pinus pumilionissyn
A strongly antiseptic oil often best used in inhalations and burners. It has a wonderful fresh, forest fragrance. There are many species of pine trees and many producers combine them to make a generic pinus sylvestris. The two best pine oils have always been considered to be the Austrian variety and the Highland variety from Scotland.
Skincare - The oil has a disinfecting nature so would work well in foot creams and gels as well as powders for trainers to stop athlete's foot. Very effective in chest complaints so consider in massage blends for back massage.
Haircare - Use in very small amounts in stimulating shampoos.
Suggested Blends - With any of the wood oils as well as fragonia.
Cautions - Excessive use can cause dermal irritation.
RAVENSARA - ravensara aromatica
Not to be confused with Ravintsara although many uses are the same. A good choice for working with viral infections such as shingles and herpes. It is a good muscle and nerve tonic and boosts the immune system. It breaks congestion in the chest and sinuses.
Skincare - It eases muscular fatigue, tension, and pain so include in small amounts in massage creams and oil blends. It is a mood-elevator that is stimulating for depressive or lethargic emotional states.
Haircare - No specific haircare useage.
Suggested Blends - With neroli, myrtle and rosewood for chronic fatigue syndrome. With St. John's Wort infused oil for herpes and shingles.
Cautions - Can be a skin irritant when used in high doses. Do not use on pregnant women and children.
ROSE DE MAI ABSOLUTE - rosa centifolia
A deeply rich, sweet floral fragrance that is very tenacious. A classic oil in aromatherapy that tones the digestive organs and can regulate the appetite. It is well known as a natural aphrodisiac and can help with insomnia and depression. An absolute is produced by solvent extraction which yields much more fragrant oil than steam distillation does and rose should always be diluted down before using as it is so overwhelming, it can be hard to appreciate the beautiful fragrance when used neat. Very much a female oriented oil, it regulates the menstrual cycle and balances the female hormones thus easing the discomfort of PMS and menopause.
Skincare - As rose tones the liver, it is automatically a good skincare oil for all skin types but especially helping with dry skin, mature skin, wrinkles and broken capillaries. It improves poor circulation and instils a sense of love and self care that is very appropriate for creams, gels and lotions as well as bath melts and body butters.
Haircare - No direct haircare useage but it would make a shampoo or conditioner very luxurious and desirable.
Suggested Blends - With jasmine and ylang ylang as an aphrodisiac. With sandalwood and patchouli for skincare.
Cautions - Do not use during pregnancy.
ROSEMARY, CAMPHOR - rosmarinus officinalis
A classic oil in aromatherapy and this particular one has a very strong camphoraceous smell. This oil is the best of the rosemary oil for pain relief blends and as a decongestant due to the high camphor content.
Skincare - Very good for releasing muscular tension and easing aches and pains so included in analgesic gels, massage lotions and gels. A strong antispasmodic, it will ease muscle cramps as well as intestinal cramps. Useful in rheumatism creams.
Haircare - It increases circulation to the scalp so encourages hair growth. Try combining it with bio-energiser.
Suggested Blends - With Fragonia as an analgesic for sports injury massage.
Cautions - Irritant in excess. Do not use during pregnancy, with high blood pressure or with epileptics.
ROSEMARY, CINEOL TYPE - rosmarinus officinalis
A very fresh and woody herbaceous, mentally stimulating fragrance that is very stimulating so often best used during the day rather than late at night. This is the best of the rosemary types for working with respiratory problems especially if they stem from emotional or nervous causes.
Skincare - Very good to help clear oedema and cellulite so use in body lotions, gels and body wraps. It is a circulatory stimulant so ideal to use in massage lotions and oil blends. Reduces oily skin and helps with acne so use in creams, lotions, gels and masques for problem skin.
Haircare - Helps to clear dandruff and improve an oily scalp. Traditionally said to encourage hair growth use it with bio-energiser.
Suggested Blends - With frankincense to slow down and deepen the breathing. With grapefruit, cypress and green mandarin for cellulite. With fragonia to resolve emotional breathing problems.
Cautions - Irritant in excess. Do not use during pregnancy, with high blood pressure or with epileptics.
ROSEMARY, VERBENONE - rosmarinus officinalis
Smells just like the freshly picked herb without a strong camphoraceous smell. This is the most gentle of the rosemary oils and is the most suited to beauty skincare. It is very regenerating for aged skin especially if from solar damage or the elements. As it is not so mentally stimulating, it is OK to use later in the day as well and it can balance the nervous system without being sedating.
Skincare - Effective on oil skin it is good for cellular regeneration as well so add to body wraps and gels for skin blemishes and acne scars. Useful for varicose veins so include in leg lotions.
Haircare - Stimulates circulation to the scalp so encourages hair growth. Combine with bio-energiser. Reduces the greasiness of an oily scalp so add to shampoos and conditioners.
Suggested Blends - With St. John's Wort, calendula, spearmint, lavender and chamomile in an after sun soothing gel.
Cautions - Irritant in excess. Do not use during pregnancy, with high blood pressure or with epileptics.
ROSEWOOD - aniba roseodora
This organic oil from Brazil comes from a supplier who has a commitment to curb deforestation and guarantee the biological balance. Known to be an aphrodisiac, it is also a good antidepressant and boosts the immune system.
Skincare - A wonderful oil for skincare as it stimulates new cell growth so include in the anti wrinkle facial serums as well as creams, lotions and gels. It balances dull, dry and oily skin so is suitable for all skin types and especially mature skin. Very good for general everyday massage to care and nurture mind and body.
Haircare - Include in shampoos to regulate dry or oils scalp conditions.
Suggested Blends - With geranium to balance acne or menopausal skin conditions. With patchouli to lift the emotions.
Cautions - None.
SAGE - salvia officinalis
A warm and spicy aroma with a slight camphoraceous note. It's quite a powerful hormone regulator hence all the warnings below. It helps with irregular periods and hormonal imbalances such as menopausal problems.
Skincare - A strong lymphatic cleanser so could possible be used in body wraps but do heed the cautions.
Haircare - It is said to stimulate hair growth but because of the cautions it would be better to use Bio-energiser.
Suggested Blends - With bay in small amounts to regulate perspiration.
Cautions - Do not use during pregnancy, on nursing mothers or when trying to get pregnant. Do not use with epilepsy or high blood pressure. Do not use with rosemary.
SANDALWOOD, MYSORE - santalum album
It is agreed that the best sandalwood oil comes from Mysore in India. The tree nearly became extinct and is no longer used for wooden furniture or buildings but only to produce the essential oil, therefore it is one of the most expensive oils available as it is so rare. Very calming and harmonising, sandalwood has always been used for meditation and ritual and Mysore is the best for this. It calms anxiety and releases depression, stress, nervous tension and even fear. It works very well on chest and urinary tract problems and infections. It's always worth buying the most you can afford of sandalwood as it only improves with age.
Skincare - A superb oil for rehydrating skin and giving a radiant glow to the skin. Even though it rehydrates dry skin, it also has an astringent effect so tones the skin and makes it firmer. Works well with oily skin, scars, acne and eczema.
Haircare - No direct usage but adds depth to a shampoo fragrance and is deeply relaxing.
Suggested Blends - With geranium to balance dry and oily skin. With fragonia as an after shave oil to stop beard bump.
Cautions - None.
SPEARMINT - mentha spicata
A deliciously sweet and fresh minty aroma. Very much dealing with the digestion and associated complaints. Eases stomach cramps and headaches that are believed to be digestive in origin. A good general tonic and it stimulates the digestive system. Also works well on the lungs for chest infections. It can help with fluid retention whilst at the same time, helping to stop urinary incontinence, catarrh and sinusitis.
Skincare - Useful for acne congested skin so include in creams, gels and lotions. It can soothe the itching of dermatitis and skin rashes. It is antibacterial and antifungal so include in foot creams and gels. It is a mild refrigerant so very cooling for sports massage lotions.
Haircare - It is calming, relaxing and uplifting to the mind and body so add to shampoos and body washes.
Suggested Blends - With chamomile and St. John's Wort infused oil for after sun care or any skin irritations like after waxing.
SPIKENARD - nardostachys grandiflora
An ancient oil that is mentioned in the Bible and often used in spiritual and religious traditions. It was part of the mummification oils used by the Ancient Egyptians. An emotionally healing oil that allows you to let go and move on releasing old fears and deeply held grudges. Ideal to use with Fragonia. It is sedative and helps with insomnia and migraines.
Skincare - Has a great affinity for the skin so include in beauty creams, lotions and gels especially for more mature skins. Ideal in around the eye treatments and serums for treating wrinkles. Use in rejuvenating masques and body wraps. Soothes rashes, allergy reactions and skin iflammations.
Haircare - Very effective against dandruff so include in shampoos as well as conditioners.
Suggested Blends - With Roman chamomile, petitgrain and clary sage to work on knotted muscles especially neck and shoulders. Could use in a gel in a roller ball for easy application.
Cautions - None.
SWEET FENNEL - foeniculum vulgare
A sweet aniseed and peppery fragrance with earthy undertones. A good oil for removing water retention and even drying out damp lung conditions. It is a good digestive stimulant.
Skincare - A good diuretic so helps with water retention and cellulitis so include in gels and body wraps for body sculpting along with Remodelling Intense. Helps to clear dull and oily complexions as well as mature skin. Generally useful for all detoxifying gels and wraps.
Haircare - No direct haircare useage.
Suggested Blends - With grapefruit and juniper for cellulite.
Cautions - Do not use in large amounts as it is a narcotic. Do not use during pregnancy, with abnormal cells of a gynaecological type or with low blood pressure. Do not use if epileptic or if known to bleed heavily.
TAGETES - tagetes minuta
A member of the marigold family but this is not the same as calendula oil. It has a sweet, fruity smell with a hint of citrus. A wonderful insect repellent as well as being anti parasitic an antifungal. Very good for shifting mucous and chest congestion
Skincare - A good antifungal so include in foot creams. It is also said to be effective against corns and callouses on the feet. Very healing for cuts and wounds so include in a gardeners hand cream.
Haircare - No specific haircare useage.
Suggested Blends - With myrrh to shift mucous and congestion.
Cautions - Do not use in pregnancy. Even though it may be thought it would be a good insect repellent in a holiday shampoo, it is a photosensitiser so could cause skin reactions.
TEA TREE, WILD - melaleuca alternifolia
A powerful immune stimulant that is a must have for all home first aid kits as it is effective against bacteria, fungi and viruses. It is thought that when the plant has been left to fend for itself in the wild, it produces a more potent oil. As it cannot be certified as organic, the category "wild" has been taken to show this oil is from a different source, Often used in a diffuser or burner against flu and other viral infections, it is very effective. It appears to be more effective when used in weaker dilutions under 2% than when used neat. This is quite often the case with many oils in that less is more effective. Although tea tree does not dissolve in water, it can be added to a water spray and shaken to disperse to act as an airborne cleanser for a sick room or public areas. It can also be used as a plant anti fungal in the garden against blackspot, rust and mildew. It's effective in the water softener or final rinse section of a washing machine as an antibacterial agent to freshen clothes and bedding. It is restorative to the mind and body after shock. Excellent to clear lung and chest infections and to clear congestion.
Skincare - It is a good anti fungal so ideal to add to foot creams and cuticle oils. For stubborn cases it can be used neat on the nail. Can also use a drop neat on cold sores or add to lip balm recipes for daily application. It relaxes muscular aches and pains so include in massage lotions and oils blends. Massage with tea tree blends before an operation have shown it to reduce post operative shock. Whilst we can never recommend that any essential oil is used internally, it is said to help with vaginal thrush and cystitis. Seek a professional aromatherapist's advice for this. It is soothing to irritated skin such as sunburn and nappy rash.
Haircare - Add to a shampoo to clear dandruff. Tests with tea tree added at 5% (which is much higher than normal useage) showed it to be effective when the shampoo is left on the hair for 3 minutes then rinsed off thoroughly. You would need to try it for yourself.
Suggested Blends - With cedarwood as in insect repellent. With eucalyptus and peppermint in steam inhalations to clear the chest.
Cautions - Some individuals with sensitive skin may react if used in excess.
THYME, BENCHMARK THYME - thymus zygis Loefl L. chemotypes
A blend of 4 thyme cultivars grown for its unique combination of aroma-chemicals. The zygis species is often called white thyme. Researched and developed by well known aromatherapy researcher and author Maggie Tisserand, this blend has similar properties to Tea Tree Essential Oil but is also useful in beauty care and is safe to use on the skin when diluted. A great choice for headaches, colds, flue etc. A powerful antiseptic that is safe to vaporise or nebulise in a room.
Skincare - Good for muscular fatigue, aches and pains so include in massage lotions and oil blends. It strengthens to respiratory system and helps with all chest and throat problems. Extensively tested in a hospital environment for efficacy against MRSA.
Haircare - No direct haircare useage.
Suggested Blends - Try it on its own first.
Cautions - Not during pregnancy, high blood pressure or with very sensitive skin.
VETIVERT - vetiveria zizanoides
A deep and earthy, smoky, woody odour with a sweet undertone. Can be quite euphoric and can help with depression when it is quite dark. A very solid and grounding oil that is said to be an aphrodisiac. It has traditionally been used to stimulate the male hormonal system and balance the female hormonal imbalance. It sedative effect helps with bowel problems and IBS.
Skincare - It helps with muscular and lymphatic congestion easing muscular aches and pains so is good for massage lotions and oil blends. Add to creams and gels for arthritis and rheumatism. As a circulatory stimulant, it helps with acne so include in creams, lotions and gel recipes as well as face masques. It balances sebum production so is useful for both dry and oily skin.
Haircare - A very heavy base note that would cover the smell of some of the active ingredients like Sea Silk.
Suggested Blends - As a strong base note to counterbalance some of the uplifting citrus oils like grapefruit or blood orange. Use with neroli or petitgrain for stress.
Cautions - Do not use with valerian.
VIOLET LEAF ABSOLUTE - viola odorata
The violet leaf gives an intensely strong green leafy smell with a delicate floral undertone. Often used to clean up mucous in the lungs and considered to be a tonic for the heart as well as on the emotional level.
Skincare - As an effective liver decongestant and circulatory stimulant, this oil is naturally going to be great for skin with enlarged pores, acne, blackheads and problem skin generally. It clears pustules and old stuff out of the body and helps with thread veins. A great choice for masques, creams, lotions and gels for face and body as well as body wraps.
Haircare - No direct haircare useage but a circulatory stimulant is always useful to encourage hair growth so try using it with bio-enegrgiser.
Suggested Blends - With frankincense and fragonia to use in meditation and to bring up old issues.
Cautions - Some people may become sensitised.
YARROW - achillea millefolium
A fresh and sweet herby - green fragrance that is very protective. It works well on the digestive system helping with haemorrhoids, constipation, cramps and indigestion. It helps with recurrent kidney or bladder infections as well as incontinence. Vey much indicated for problems with the female reproductive system.
Skincare - Combine with calendula infused oil into a cream or lotion that is very anti inflammatory for a whole range of conditions such as sunburn, arthritis, heat rash and dermatitis. Very good for eczema and scars that are hard to heal. Extremely calming to stress conditions and allergic reactions so very good for massage lotions and body lotions generally. It tones the skin and helps with varicose veins so use for body wraps and leg lotions and gels for after waxing. It is slightly astringent so idea for acne and oily skin.
Haircare - Add to shampoos and conditioners as it is traditionally used to promote hair growth. Combine with rosemary and bio-energiser. Balances an oily scalp and helps with seborrhoea.
Suggested Blends - With calendula infused oil as an anti-inflammatory. With chamomile for skin rashes.
Cautions - People with very sensitive skin could become sensitised so avoid in pregnancy or with babies.
YLANG YLANG - cananga odorata genuina
An intensely sweet yet slightly spicy, exotic floral fragrance. It has a euphoric and sedative effect so helps with anxiety and tension. This also combines well with its aphrodisiac qualities especially when the root cause is lack of confidence. Useful in intestinal infections it is often also used to slow down the breathing and a racing heartbeat. It lifts depression and stabilises mood swings.
Skincare - It has been said to slow down the aging process of the face and is often used in general skincare products. Irritated and oil skin will benefit from including it in creams, lotions and gels. It balances over dry or over oily skin by regulating the sebum production.
Haircare - Has a stimulating effect on the scalp which can encourage hair growth use in conditioners and try blending with bio-energiser in shampoos.
Suggested Blends - With jasmine and rose as an aphrodisiac. With frankincense to slow and deepen the breathing perhaps for meditation.
Cautions - Some people can become sensitised and excessive amounts can bring on nausea and migraines.